Holidays > 1997 > 12 November - 13 December: Around the World > Hong Kong

Contents

• << Part 1 - South Africa.
• << Part 2 - Australia.
• << Part 3 - New Zealand.

• Hong Kong
  • Fri 05/12/1997 Flight to Melbourne and Hong Kong, Kownloon Tong, Thai Restaurant, Kownloon Tsai Park and Checkerboard Watching Planes Coming into Land at Kai Tak Airport
  • Sat 06/12/1997 Hong Kong Island, Lamma Bay, Peng Chau, Lantau, Cheung Chau,....
  • Sun 07/12/1997 Golden Arcade, Kowloon Park, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Temple Street Market
  • Mon 08/12/1997 New Territories, Sha Tin 10000 Buddas, Kowloon Park and Shopping
  • Tue 09/12/1997 Lantau, Po Lin Monastry and Victoria Peak
  • Wed 10/12/1997 Wong Tai Sin Temple, Fortune Teller, Hong Kong Park, Zoological and Botanical Garden
  • Thu 11/12/1997 Stanley, Tin Hau Temple, Sham Shui Po, Checkerboard
  • Fri 12/12/1997 Kwai Fong, Ladies Market, Far Yen Street, Aquarium Market, Sushi and Return to England
  • Sat 13/12/1997 Arrival in England and Home

Hong Kong

Fri 05/12/1997 Flight to Melbourne and Hong Kong, Kowloon Tong, Thai Restaurant, Kowloon Tsai Park and Checkerboard Watching Planes Coming into Land at Kai Tak Airport

Jonathan’s Dad kindly dropped me off at the Airport and Jonathan came with to see me off. Jonathan might be visiting England next year, depending on how his job goes. He might be looking for a new one next year, in which case, he might take a month’s break between jobs. (There were an awful lot of "might"s in that last sentence.)

I am currently about 49 minutes away from the arrival at Melbourne, where I have to wait two hours for the transfer to Hong Kong.

Later...

Hello again! It is 17:10 Australian time, which means we are five minutes into the flight to Hong Kong. They showed a good episode of Friends, but it all went down hill after that. We were told to close the shades, which meant it was very dark (strange that!) and I am sure will help contribute to my already very screwed up body clock. I was looking forward to one of the good movies they showed trailers of, but half an hour later, but they showed some Japanese film with English sub-titles. I don’t have anything against sub-titles, but the screen in front of us was too small for the writing to be legible. I resorted to Mathematics preparation, as I have finished all the books and magazines I brought with me.

Two hours later...

They started the next film - Contact! Aaargh! It has been on every flight so far. I think I could probably recite it word for word. It looks like I will have to resort to Mathematics Preparation again.

I finally got through Passport Control forty minutes after arriving at 18:05. It took two attempts, as I was half way through when my nose started to bleed. It has done that the last three flights. Anyway, that meant a quick dash to the toilets. When I returned to Passport Control, the queues were twice as long!

I met Uncle Tony in front of McDonald’s in the Arrivals Hall and we made our way to the Taxi Rank. I dropped my things off at the flat and left for an introduction to Kowloon Tong. La Salle Court is actually on the corner of Dunbarton and La Salle Road. Uncle Tony zigzagged along the side roads of Ng Tsin Wai Road, looking at the stalls and pointing out places of interest like Kowloon City Plaza (for CDs etc). We had supper at a Thai restaurant on Kai Tak road, which consisted of fried Cuttlefish and Sticky Rice. He showed me another way of returning to the flat via the back of Kowloon City Plaza, Junction Road, Dumbarton Road, Kowloon Tsai Park, detour via the Checkerboard (most impressive with planes coming in to land) and down through the park to join up with Dumbarton road again.

Sat 06/12/1997 Hong Kong Island, Lamma Bay, Peng Chau, Lantau, Cheung Chau,....

Uncle Tony had to work this morning, so I walked to the Mass Transit Railway (MTR), where we had agreed to meet, to see how long it would take. I then walked into Kowloon City to get another feel for it. I priced CDs at Kowloon City Plaza, but wasn’t impressed with their selection. I had a McDonald’s milkshake for HK$7 and explored some more, before returning to the MTR. We caught it to Central, where we walked to Pier 7 for the Ferry to Cheung Chau. We sat on the upper deck (Deluxe!), with a view of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Harbour, Lamma Bay, Peng Chau and parts of Lantau. We arrived at Cheung Chau (Long Island) an hour later. It was once again a case of hit the ground running. Okay, I admit we did stop for a McDonald’s (Filet o’ Fish) before visiting the following:

• Praya Street
• Pak Tai Temple
• Pak She Street
• Pier, where they were maintaining machinery and engines in small garages.
• Cheung Kwai Road
• up the hill to a lookout from the Peak

We returned to the town in the centre of the island, which is shaped like a dumbbell and walked around while waiting for a Kaido to Sai Wan pier. There was a new looking sunken boat in the middle of Sai Wan harbour which has been there for a long time apparently. We then followed a footpath through the trees past Cheung Po Tsai cave, Riding Rock, Pak Tso Wan beach, along the coast to Nan Tam Wan (Morning Beach). We passed some cemeteries, where the bones are dug up after many years and cremated, to be placed in an Urn. There wouldn’t be any space left on the island otherwise. We then walked through a maze of streets to Kwun Yam Wan (Afternoon Beach) and Tun Wan beach. There aren’t any cars on the island and the only form of transport is walking or bicycle. There are houses and trees towering above the path, which all of a sudden opens up on the right to a huge Football Field with surrounding Athletics track and Flood Lighting! Hong Kong is so full of surprises!

We carried on down the path, which led to a temple (???) above a beach from which the Chinese Windsurfing champion practises. We took a break at a tea shop, where we had some strange (but nice!) Chinese Tea and Red Bean Muffins, which were nice, but so filling, I could only manage one. We had Noodles, fried Cuttlefish, Scallops and Broccoli for supper at a restaurant on Praya Street overlooking the harbour. Uncle Tony took a photograph of me to prove to everyone I was actually eating it.

We sat on the lower deck on the return trip, as it was dark, so wouldn’t justify the upper deck. I took quite a few photographs with the shutter speed set to 25, hoping the extra exposure on the 100 film would pick up the harbour lights. [It didn’t!] We returned to Pier 7 and made our way to the Star Ferry Pier for the Ferry trip to the Kowloon Peninsula across the harbour. We walked along Kowloon harbour, past the Clock Tower, which features in on of my photographs which Uncle Tony took. We walked through the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, up Nathan Road, past Kowloon Park, left at Austin Road and right at Temple Street, which isn’t signposted, but they sell Sugar Cane on the corner, which is just as good as sign-posting. I didn’t buy anything, as it was late and I wanted to be shown as much by Uncle Tony as possible, but made a note to come back during the week. The market only starts across Jordan Road and continues left at Kansu Street and right at Shanghai Street. The Temple which gives the road its name is Tin Hau and there are some Fortune Tellers on Market Street just before it. We turned right into this road, to get back to Nathan Road, where we went for a Soya Bean Curd pudding. It looked the same as my Soya Bean Milk after I left it in my suitcase on Jason’s floor with the under-carpet heating on! I struggled with the first mouthful, but I was just being silly, as I found I liked it.

We then caught a bus back to La Salle Court.

Sun 07/12/1997 Golden Arcade, Kowloon Park, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Temple Street Market

Uncle Tony had to work from 12:00, so he took me to places I would be interested in revisiting. We took the MTR to Mong Kok for the KPS Express, which is a good source of CDs and it at 601 Nathan Road, opposite the Star Centre. Ladies Market (for clothing), on Tung Choi Street, was just setting up, as it opens at 11:30. We followed the road North, turned right on Argyle street and took the first left to Fa Yuen Street, which is a very good Clothing market. There is an Aquarium market further up Tung Choi Street, which I will visit later in the week.

We turned right at the end of Fa Yuen Street, to go along Prince Edward Road West to Yuen Po Street for the Bird Garden. There were hundreds of tiny birds in tiny cages. Some of the stall holders were selling Locusts as food for the birds. They would stick their hand in a chicken wire cage absolutely full of Locusts and bring out a handful to put in an aerated plastic bag. Uncle Tony said an elderly man came running after Megan and plucked a stray Locust off her back when she was here!

We caught the MTR at Prince Edward and alighted at Sham Shui Po for the Golden Arcade. It is a good source of Software and Computer Books. I found a good shop, walked off to compare prices, found it was the cheapest, only to find it had closed five minutes later. Uncle Tony had to go off to work from here, so I walked around the Golden Arcade for about half an hour and made a note of some good book shops like DueBase. It was about 11:50, so I went across the road to McDonald’s and ordered a large Filet o’ Fish and planned my afternoon.

I caught the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui and walked to the Hong Kong Tourist Association at the Star Ferry Pier to get "The Official Hong Kong Map". This proved to be more difficult than I anticipated, as I ended up at the Ocean Terminal instead. I also visited Star House, which has some Computer Shops, but is very expensive.

I wanted to get back to Kowloon Park, so walked through the Hong Kong Cultural Centre and up Kowloon Park Drive. I took a photograph of a fountain near the entrance and remembered Uncle Tony had mentioned the Hong Kong Museum of History. Unfortunately, it was 16:10 and it closes at 17:00. The Ticket Office attendant said I would need about an hour to see everything, so I made yet another note to go back during the week. I rejoined Nathan Road and went to Temple Street Market. I notice the time was 19:30 and Uncle Tony had said he would be back at 18:00, so I scanned the Hong Kong Map for a quick way back and took a brisk walk along Argyle Street, Waterloo Road, Prince Edward Road and eventually La Salle and Dumbarton Road. Uncle Tony then mentioned a few more places to visit.

Mon 08/12/1997 New Territories, Sha Tin 10000 Buddas, Kowloon Park and Shopping

I took the KCR (Kowloon Tong Railway) to Sheung Shui, North of Kowloon Tong, for a different perspective of Hong Kong - in the New Territories. It is the last station you are allowed to disembark before you have to show a Passport, as it heads toward China! I went looking for a Market mentioned in the Rough Guide, but it doesn’t exist anymore - or I just couldn’t find it! I found another market, but it was one of those Regional Centres where meat and fish are sold on the ground floor, vegetables on the second and the top floor has squash courts!

I caught the KCR back towards Kowloon and stopped at Sha Tin for the 10000 Buddhas Temple. I went to McDonald’s first, as I was told I would need the energy for the 400 steps up the side of the hill / mountain to the Temple at the top. I followed the signs to the Temple, but the third one had a notice posted over it saying it was closed due to dangerous slopes. I ignored it and kept walking. I was lucky I did, as the boarding was still up, but doors open. The only place still closed was the pathway which winds behind the Temple to the very top. The Temple was really impressive, with 10000 miniature Buddhas on shelves lining the walls. I took loads of photographs, especially ones of the courtyard with its massive statues.

I caught the KCR back to Kowloon Tong and crossed the road to take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui (pronounced Jim Sah Choy). I went straight to the Hong Kong Museum of History in, but this time it was closed! The signs outside say it is open from 09:00 to 17:00 daily and doesn’t mention it is closed on Mondays. The sign hanging on the door looked new. I explored Kowloon Park thoroughly, visiting the following:

• Kowloon Mosque
• Islamic Complex
• Ornamental Garden
• Bird Lake
• Aviary
• Maze
• Sculpture Alley
• Chinese Garden.

I walked down Granville Road, which is famous for its clothing and tailors. The clothing was very up market and the Rough Guide said three fittings were necessary to get a well tailored suit, so I decided I wouldn’t have time. I then wandered around all the side roads and alleys with tiny shops selling things like Jigsaws which looked like oil paintings. I finally made it back onto Nathan road and headed for Temple Street Market.

I bought a necklace for Kate and spotted some ties of which I bought 5 for HK120. I tried the Jade Market near Temple Street Market, but it was closed, as it is a Day Market and the time was 18:15. Back at Temple Street Market, on the corner of Shanghai Street and Public Square Street, there was an oil painting for sale of the Hong Kong Island Skyline at Night, on a Velvet background, which I considered buying, but was put off by the price - HK$400. [When I think about it now, it was only £33 and I could have haggled.] I rejoined Nathan Road and headed North toward KPS to buy some CDs. I bought Live (Throwing Copper), Alice in Chains (Dirt), Jane’s Addiction (Kettle Whistle), Nirvana (From the Muddy Banks of Wishkah), Radiohead (Pablo Honey), Violent Femmes (Add it Up - Best of 1981 - 1993) and Silverchair (Freak Show). The time was now 20:16 [I can tell from the KPS Invoice], so I made my way back towards the flat via Ladies Market, Far Yuen Street Market, Boundary Road and past the Leisure Centre near the Bird Market. The Leisure Centre has concrete Table-Tennis tables surrounding the building. [I took a photograph, but it didn’t come out.] I then walked further up Boundary Road, turned left on La Salle Road and right into Dumbarton where the flat is, but you should know that by now.

I think I will give these Markets a break for the next few days, as there is far more to see.

Tue 09/12/1997 Lantau, Po Lin Monastry and Victoria Peak

I took the MTR to Central and left at Exit E. I caught a Passenger Ferry to Silvermine Bay on Lantau Island. I caught the number two bus to Ngang Ping for the Po Lin Monastery. I bought a ticket which entitled me to a Vegetarian Meal in the food hall and entry to the museum inside the statue.

I had half an hour to kill before the meal, so wandered around the Monastery with its other Buddhas in the Antechamber and three Gold Statues in the main Temple. I had just about seen everything in the Monastery when I had to make my way to the Food Hall. I was shown to my seat at a table in a corner and wondered if I was going to have it to myself, as all the other tables were occupied and the food started to arrive. A huge pot of sticky rice was placed in the centre of the table and large bowl of what turned out to be soup laid beside it. I served myself some rice and soup, which was a bad idea, as it meant the rice was no longer sticky and it took me ages to eat it. I ended up drinking it. Half way through my "drink", people started to arrive to sit at my table. Plates containing vegetables I had never seen before were placed at intervals on the table. I was complimented on my use of chopsticks by a Chinese couple who work in a bank on Hong Kong Island. They were visiting all the outlying islands as a holiday to celebrate their first Wedding Anniversary. It was nice to hear someone speak English with some proficiency. The lunch was over in half an hour and I had to rush what was left of my second helping.

I then made the pilgrimage up the many steps to the Massive Buddha on the top of the hill. I took some photographs of the view and various perspectives of the Buddha. I used my ticket to gain entry to the Museum of Buddhas inside the Statue, but it was a bit of a waste, as it was all in Cantonese / Chinese Calligraphy without subtitles! The paintings were really good though and are deceptively more detailed than they appear.

I considered going to Tai O, which was another suggestion of Uncle Tony’s, but it would have meant long periods of waiting around for busses and I wanted to visit Victoria peak in the afternoon. I therefore returned to Silvermine bay and caught the Ferry back to Central.

I wanted to go to Victoria Peak, so looked it up in the Rough Guide, which mentioned a Tram or bus number 15. The bus was almost half the price and offered arguably better views, so I opted for that. It is well worth it and is a bit hair-raising at times, as it is a very winding uneven road. I stepped uncertainly off the bus at Victoria Peak and hoped the trembling didn’t show in my gait as I made my way to the Peak Tower. Unfortunately, the sun sets at about 18:00 (behind the pollution), so I managed to get a photograph of a sunset, but that meant there would only be night views from the Peak. I went to McDonald’s for supper and prepared for a night walk around Victoria Peak by donning a long-sleeve shirt and jersey (sorry, jumper!).

The walk around Victoria Peak consisted of following Harlech and Lugard Road around the peak. It was very relaxing and there were some very spectacular views of the lights in Aberdeen and Hong Kong Harbour. The road was more like a footpath and had very subtle lighting. The trees got in the way of some of the scenery though and there were benches which would have had a good view, but faced trees. They also grey overhead, which made it a bit spooky with the Moon shining through. I love walking at night, as you don’t have to worry about being burnt by the sun and it is so quiet. The facilities in Hong Kong are really good. As an example, there was what looked like an ablution block at a camping ground on a path just off the road. I followed the road all the way round and back to the Peak Tower.

I could have caught the Tram back, but noticed Old Peak road on the map, which winds down the mountain and goes past the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Garden, which I wanted to visit. It was very hard on the knees, as it was a steep decent. I finally arrived at the gates to the Garden, but it was closed. The Rough Guide says it closes at 21:00, but the plaque outside said it closes at 19:00.

I arrived back at the flat at 22:00 and fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.

Wed 10/12/1997 Wong Tai Sin Temple, Fortune Teller, Hong Kong Park, Zoological and Botanical Garden

I caught the MTR to Wong Tai Sin Temple, which is two stations East of the Kowloon Tong station. There is a magnificent garden behind the Temple, which is well worth the HK$2 donation. I walked around every inch of the garden and took a few photographs. I then took a photograph of the Dragon Wall a the exit. By this time, it was near midday and the worshippers turned up with offerings like a Roasted Piglet!!! They also borrowed jars of sticks with lettering, which they shook until some fell out, which they returned to have a reading based on the sticks.

I went to a Physiognomist (Fortune Teller) in the stalls in front of the Temple and this was what she read / foretold:

• I was born in the Year of the Ox.
• The left palm tells your Fate and it shows I was born with Intelligence.
• The right palm shows what can be achieved with effort.
• I make things happen.
• My thumbs are very flexible, which shows a flexible nature - I need to stand up for myself more.
• My Art Arc shows I am talented, but I may be lonely if I spend too much time working.
• I am a Thinker.
• I must talk to my family more.
• I will marry at age 29/30, when my life becomes more stable. I will have 2 children. My wife should either have a long face (for support) or round (for luck). A square face is a no-no.
• I will live to age 90, as I have a very long Life Line.
• Health-wise, my only problem will be my Liver - through Alcohol or Anxiety. i.e. I worry too much.
• My prominent ears indicate money in my old age, but I need to save for it now.
• My lips are narrow, which shows I don’t talk enough.
• My eyes show I worry too much. I must become more optimistic.
• My career gets better at age 41, when I become a leader. To become a good leader, I mustn’t accept peoples excuses too readily.
• 1997 is the year of the Ox again, which means I was argumentative.
• Next year will get better in the second half.

I caught the MTR to Quarry Bay and headed straight for the nearest McDonald’s for lunch. I located the tram and waited for the next one to Shau Kei Wan. It only cost HK3.50 (27p) and you can stay on as long as you like.

• Admiralty for Pacific Place shopping mall.
• Hong Kong Park (Waterfall)
• Zoological and Botanical Garden.
• Met Alex up the Tower.

Thu 11/12/1997 Stanley, Tin Hau Temple, Sham Shui Po, Checkerboard

• Stanley Market
• Tin Hau Temple
• Long Escalator
• Golden Arcade (Sham Shui Po) - bought books at DueBase
• Checkerboard - photographed planes coming in to land
• $10 Shop - 2 Door Stops, Luminous Night Sky

Fri 12/12/1997 Kwai Fong, Ladies Market, Far Yen Street, Aquarium Market, Sushi and Return to England

• Kwai Fong - Arcade for Software
• KPS Mong Kok - exchange CDs
• Watsons - 2 x 400ASA Film
• Ladies Market
• Far Yen Street
• Aquarium Market
• Sushi (pronounced Sowsee)
• 20:50 Airport
• The vibration at takeoff was so bad, the oxygen masks above me fell out.
• Men in Black was shown.

Sat 13/12/1997 Arrival in England and Home

What more can I say?